Bianca’s (Greensboro NC)

There is a distinct possibility that I don’t actually like Italian restaurants. I’ve been to a lot of places in Greensboro that people think are fantastic — including Riva’s Trattoria — that I think are mediocre. Maybe I just don’t want to pay for pasta served with simple sauces. But when I think about Cascone’s in Kansas City and Via Carducci in Chicago, I know that can’t be true. I loved the authenticity of the food at those places — I could recognize my croutons as yesterday’s dinner rolls. That, combined with attentive service, really made me feel like I was sitting in an Italian grandmother’s kitchen.

I had high hopes for Bianca’s — it was voted Best Kept Secret, Best for First Dates, and Best Italian in the Go Triad Readers Choice Awards and it came highly recommended by foodie friends. I see the appeal, but it did not live up to the hype.

Here’s what people like about Bianca’s: it’s conveniently located near UNCG, the small dining room makes it seem intimate, the cafeteria chairs keep it from being too fancy, and you get a lot of food for a little bit of money. Every entree includes an appetizer, salad, garlic bread, a side of pasta, and dessert. That would be great, if the food were great. Some might call it comfort food — garlic bread that’s been buttered and pan fried, meat that’s been buried in a heap of red sauce and mozzarella, a heaping bowl of linguine that’s stirred into the same red sauce as everything else. I call it amateur. The mediocre food and the sub-par service make it hard for me to believe that any Italian person has ever set foot in that restaurant, much less in the kitchen.

Bianca’s Italian Eatery is located near UNCG in Greensboro on Spring Garden and Chapman. The small restaurant has limited seating and reservations are recommended, if not required. Entrees range from $10 to $16 and come with an appetizer, salad, bread, and dessert. For a more positive review of Bianca’s, read Possum Casserole.